A late surf today because of the tide but it worked out well. The day had started with wind and rain quite miserable and typical of this wash out June! By 2’oclock however,the sun was shining and the wind had dropped leaving clean 3 footers hitting the wall. We had a coffee and waited till the sand showed under the white water.
It was great to be in and feel the sun on your face. The waves were full of joy, tumbling, and sliding towards us you could almost hear their laughter on this wonderful day! We caught everything we could, practising our turns and winging our way along the lip.
What a privilege to be here today and be part of this place, the ocean, the beach, the blue,blue sky. Would it could last forever-tomorrow seems years away!
Surfdancer 