Waves for October

Time out again for returning to the rhythms of the sea. A strange October day, very autumnal with the sky casting a leaden gloom of grey and the mist hanging like an apparition above the beach.
We paddled out feeling the familiar undulations of the ocean beneath our boards, anxios to ride and reclaim our sanity.
Ropes of swell slap the shore- line on an easterly wind. Some clean fair sized peaks, some messed up. Long lefts and a few short rights. Medium tide causing the mid -sized waves to back off quickly, the biggest rolling nicely all the way inside.
Kept us stoked for the afternoon-a real tonic!